Learning Spanish in Panamá

One of the main reasons for choosing Latin America for our travels was to improve our Spanish. We found a Spanish school whereby we can travel and learn at the same time.

On Sunday evening we had our introductory talk for the Spanish school. Our teacher, Sergio, had been detained by another engagement so it came to Camila, who was assisting us for the week, to give the introduction. After a brief intro she took each of us in turn for a one to one Spanish oral test. I was a little nervous and it didn’t help that the first question she asked me was “Que has hecho en Panamá?”. This uses the preterito perfecto tense which is not one that I’ve used before. I managed to answer some more questions but I didn’t come away feeling confident. Alex seemed to fare better, but her Spanish is better than mine so I wasn’t surprised.

Once everyone had been tested and a few stragglers had arrived we all went out to dinner to a restaurant that our guide and teacher Sergio (who had now arrived) recommended. It turned out to be El Trapiche, the same place we’d been the previous night!

Over dinner we chatted to Sergio in Spanish and got to know some of our course mates who we’d be spending the next four weeks with. Our group of ten is pretty varied with nearly a 40 year age gap between the youngest and oldest member. We’re also very international with Switzerland, Norway, Germany, Denmark, Belgium, Canada, and even Iceland represented! It’s a female dominated group with only 3 men to 7 women, but we were very happy to see that we’re not the oldest! Since both Alex and I normally work with young teams and have friends 30 years older, we’re just as happy talking to the 19 year old as we are the 57 year old and we’re finding that we get along with everyone. Although the group is very diverse in terms of backgrounds and interests, we share an interest in learning Spanish and travelling, which is enough to ensure there are never any lulls in conversation.

Back at our first dinner, while chatting to our teacher Sergio he seemed pleasantly surprised with our Spanish ability. We walked home from the restaurant as a group and got an early night ready for our 8am Spanish lesson on the first day!

The next morning we had breakfast and went upstairs to two rooms in the hostel which had been hastily converted to classrooms. It quickly emerged that we’d been split into two groups, and I expected to be in the lower one with Alex in the more advanced one. After mistakenly sending Alex to the other classroom, I was pleasantly surprised to find that we’d both been placed in the advanced class with 6 of us in this class and 4 in the other.

Sergio our guide and teacher is a Panamanian who speaks to us clearly and obviously paces himself to speak at a level where we all understand him.  Our first day of lessons was essentially revision for both Alex and I, but it helped to cement our knowledge of grammatical structures and remind us of concepts that we haven’t studied for nearly 10 years. Sergio is fantastic at clearly explaining concepts, and after 4 hours I already felt like I was improving. Our group of 6 feels fairly even. Alex and I have some of the best vocabulary, but our speaking is behind some of the others. Our good vocabulary is particularly useful because we learnt it in Ecuador, so we have at our disposal words like tiburon (shark) and hamaca (hammock) that you might not otherwise use! Others have excellent speaking abilities, but not as wide a vocabulary. One member has a really good knowledge of the grammatical structure but struggles with speaking and oral comprehension. What I really like is that we all help each other to find a missing word or express a concept in Spanish with our limited vocabulary.

Our first afternoon included a tour of Casco Viejo, the old town, conducted by our guide, entirely in Spanish of course. We finished the tour with drinks in a rooftop bar with incredible views over the whole city as the sun set over the hills.

Watching some of the girls take photos is a source of continual amusement. As a generation that grew up with social media they have a million poses, pouts and ways to find the perfect picture. Our Icelandic class member Berglin in particular is amazing to watch as she pulls faces for the camera. None of this is a judgement on them however, talk to Berglin for five minutes and you quickly realise that she is fiercely intelligent, politically informed and studying to be a lawyer, completing assignments in the evenings all while attending the Spanish school in the daytime.

The first day set the rhythm for the week with each day featuring lessons from 8-12 with an afternoon activity.

By Tuesday afternoon I was once again comfortable writing paragraphs of Spanish and had learnt the preterite perfecto so I could now answer the question “que has hecho?”

Tuesday afternoon’s activity was a visit to a canal and museum. Not just any canal, the Panamá Canal. The trip started with a 45 minute video about the canal narrated by Morgan Freeman, followed by a visit to a viewing platform where we watched a large tanker transit the Miraflores locks. As we watched, a narrator explained the steps of the process and repeatedly confirmed that the Panama canal employs 10,000 Panamanian’s and not a single person from China.

Wednesday’s classes once again reminded us of us some concepts that Sergio had noticed we were often mistaking and allowed us to practice what we’d learned in the last few days. I really love how a lot of the class is spent just talking as a group in Spanish and the size of the class (6 vs 2) feels less intense than Ecuador, but still feels like I’m learning a lot!

Wednesday afternoon was a free afternoon. Most of the girls decided to go to the mall but just before they left, Laura asked us what we were planning to do. I answered that we were planning to visit the Parque Metropolitano, which is less of a park and more of a jungle on the edge of the city. I could tell that Laura was less interested in the idea of spending the afternoon in a mall, so I told her to reach out if she fancied joining us if she got bored.

We had a slow lunch and got ready to leave, wanting to wait until it was a little less hot before going walking, Laura had messaged to ask if she could join us. We picked her up on the way and headed to the park.

Laura is a 20 year old student from Denmark. She’s on her gap year and is travelling alone until her boyfriend joins her in March. She immediately reminds me of the Dutch girls that we travelled with for 3 months in South America. She could be our daughter, although to preserve my ego I’m trying to think of her more like a little sister. Despite the age gap it feels like there is more in common between us than some of the others.

Laura joined us for the walk and was more than happy traipsing through the forest with us in her flip flops. During the walk we saw some capybara, a rather odd looking South American rodent. On the way down from the highest point we saw a sloth, a chance find as they move so slowly, and as far as I remember the first sloth either of us have seen in the wild.

After the park we headed back to the hostel for the last activity of the day, a dance class. I’ll start by saying that I am not a natural dancer. Alex is better than me but doesn’t really like to be led. We don’t make great dance partners, but we do have fun along the way and make up for a lack of talent with enthusiasm. The dance class was an hour and taught us the basic steps of salsa, bachatta, and merengue.

There was a shortage of men for the dance class so we roped in some of the guys staying in the hostel. One partnered with Laura, and it turned out that both of them had previously done some salsa, so we watched while they spun each other around. The class ended with much laughter and some accidental foot stepping, but I didn’t disgrace myself too much!

This week we’ve mostly been eating at our hostel as we haven’t really wanted to eat the volume of a full restaurant meal, so it’s felt like a relatively healthy week with lots of walking and not too much eating or drinking.

Classes this week ended on Wednesday as Thursday and Friday featured a trip to the San Blas Islands which we’ll cover in the next post.

So far we’re having a great time, our Spanish is improving, I’m keeping up with Alex and the class,  and we have a lovely group on the travelling class who I’m looking forward to spending the next month with.

Getting started in Panamá City

Our last few days at home were a bit of a blur, Alex finished work on Friday as planned. I had some extra work to finish off on Monday and Tuesday. Preparing to leave home for three months isn’t a typical experience. Last time we were leaving London permanently and it was barely managed chaos, this time has at least been a little less brutal. Even though we thought we were pretty much ready by Thursday morning, I still spent the day running around and predictably a few things didn’t get done. Our friend Terry gave us a lift to the station and we headed to London for a night in an airport hotel, before a 6:30am flight to Madrid and a connection to Panama City.

The flights were uneventful and we arrived early to Panama. As we stepped off the plane as we were hit by a wall of hot air as we arrived in the 35 degree humid heat of Panama. A driver for the Spanish school drove us to the hostel and we made the most of the opportunity to practice our Spanish with him. 

The hostel in Panamá City is small and friendly but a level of basic that we’re just not used to anymore, although it’s really clean and has all the essentials. On the recommendation of the owner we went out for dinner to El Trapiche, a Central/South American restaurant nearby, for a delicious meal (only slightly marred by the fact that for us it was nearly 1am and we were flagging, despite the excitement).

The one surprise was the walk to the restaurant which featured a stroll through a mall that was cleaner and featured more luxury brands than anything I’m used to, very similar to ones I visited in Bangalore and Alex saw in Dubai. The Ferrari dealership on the corner reminded us that Panama is a major tax haven.

After nearly 24 hours awake we slept well, the air conditioning in our room is noisy but effective and the bed is comfortable. The next morning we woke early and enjoyed the hostel breakfast which consists of coffee, bananas, and all the ingredients to make your own pancakes, which of course we did!

Eager to explore, we took a walk along the coastal path out of the new city area where we’re staying to Casco Viejo, the old town. On our way we stopped via the seafood market which has lots of restaurants outside selling seafood direct from the market. Since we’d been walking for an hour, we used the excuse that we were basically still on UK time to get a beer. We took a seat amongst a healthy mix of locals and tourists. 

After this we headed into the old town, which was full of old Spanish Colonial buildings. It immediately reminded us both of Havana, Cuba or Cartagena in Colombia, and like those places it contained a mix of beautifully restored buildings, next to others that we’re empty and on the verge of collapse. Many in fact had corrugated iron roofs over the pavements to prevent any falling masonry hitting any passers by!

We’re generally pretty good at hunting down good beer and sure enough minutes later we stumbled into La Rana Dorada, a microbrewery in a beautifully restored building. We set to the task of trying the beers, while wolfing down a surprising large lunch. Sated, we walked to the Museo Del Canal, which explains not just the history of the canal but puts it into context of all of Panamá’s history, from before the earliest European settlers all the way through the US invasion of 1989 (worryingly topical after Trump’s inauguration) to today. We found it so fascinating that two hours later we were kicked out at 6pm as the museum was closing.

We decided to grab an Uber back to the hostel, and walked to the edge of the old town, however when trying to turn down a road we noticed the military turning people away from several blocks forcing a slight detour. I later realised that it was the presidential palace we were being kept away from, and today was also the day that the newly appointed US Secretary of State Marco Rubio was visiting Panama. Considering Trump’s recent statements about the Panama canal I can only guess there were concerns of protest.

Our Uber home was uneventful and our Uber driver was more than happy to help us practice our Spanish after we mentioned that it was the purpose of our trip!

Sunday was another day exploring. I’m getting used to pancakes for breakfast every day, and shortly after breakfast we headed out to climb a hill in the city that has been restored as somewhat of a mini nature reserve. We took an Uber to the foot of the hill and climbed up an easy walk made harder by the heat. The summit gave us our first view of the Panamá canal which was pretty impressive. After this we went to the Bio Museo which was interesting but expensive. One thing we’ve noticed about Panamá (which we’ve seen in many other countries) is differentiated pricing for locals and tourists. It’s pretty extreme in Panamá however, with museums ending up more expensive for us that their equivalent in England.

At 5pm we returned to the hostel for a Spanish school orientation and oral assessment, which I’ll cover in the next post.

So, just two days in, what are our overall impressions?

Panamá City itself in an interesting contrast of modernity and luxury in the malls, with the Spanish Colonial charm of the Casco Viejo old town.

We didn’t need to worry too much about being 40 year olds in a hostel. There are people here who are older than us and we feel like we fit in just fine.

Panamanians so far have been kind, generous, and friendly, several taxi drivers have been more than happy helping us to practice our Spanish.

On the road again..

We returned from South America in April 2016, and in the last nine years, a lot has changed. After living in Bristol for a year, we moved to the Cotswolds and bought a 10-year renovation project house. After two major building projects and a whole raft of smaller renovations, the house is nearly finished. In this time, we’ve also both moved companies, experienced good and bad times, but along the way we’ve made a whole new set of friends in our adopted Cotswolds home near Stroud.

It’s time for another adventure. We’ve managed to arrange a three month sabbatical after some careful planning with both of our employers. While three months is the maximum that I can take, Alex has a little longer, so is taking the lead on getting us ready so that we can travel for nearly the entire time that I’m off work.

We’re leaving in a few days and have a rough plan:

Weeks 1-5

Travelling Spanish school in Panama and Costa Rica. This includes around 4 hours Spanish tuition a day plus activities in each location.

We’ll be starting in Panama City for the first week. We’ll be visiting the Panama canal and taking a trip to the San Blas Islands for a night or two.

The second week is in Boquete in the jungle where in addition to the ongoing Spanish we’ll have a tree top canopy tour.

The third week is in Bocas del Toro by the coast where we’ll be exploring the coast by catamaran, snorkelling and enjoying the nightlife.

In week four we head across the border to Turrialba in Costa Rica, where we’ll finish the week with some white water rafting on the Pacuare river.

Finally in the fifth week we’ll be visiting both Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica as well as Tortaguero on the north east coast which is only accessible by boat. Both of these locations will be second visits for me as I visited over 20 years ago with friends. I’m looking forward to seeing how they have changed, as well as showing Alex places that I fell in love with many years ago.

Weeks 6-12

For our remaining seven weeks, we break out of the structure of the travelling Spanish school and continue our travels with less of a defined plan. There is a lot more of Costa Rica that I’d like to show Alex, but we also want to continue north.

Nicaragua has been on our wishlist since fellow travellers told us of their experiences during our South America trip, as has Guatemala, and we’ve both wanted to visit Mexico for many years. We’ve got our work cut out without even mentioning El Salvador, Honduras, and Belize, and we don’t like to rush countries, preferring to spend a few weeks in each!

I suspect the hardest decisions we’re going to make during this phase are where not to go, but right now there are no concrete plans and, like last time, we’ll keep it fluid and be open to suggestions from people we meet along the way.

We’ll be post on here as regularly as we can, however there’s always a delay while we edit our story and photos, if you want to see the unedited view of our travels follow us on Instagram:

Buenos Aires, Walking, Dancing and Culture

Buenos Aires is somewhere I’d really been looking forward to visiting on this trip. The capital of Argentina, it is a huge, sprawling, vibrant and interesting city. It was also quite warm, high twenties/thirties most days we were there and pretty humid! I’m going to describe our experiences in one blog post, although in reality we visited BA in three separate trips, using it as a base to leave some of our baggage, whilst we explored further afield to Iguazu and Uruguay.

Continue reading “Buenos Aires, Walking, Dancing and Culture”

Thoughts on Uruguay

Uruguay was just a ‘maybe’ on our original rough plan for travelling, but we’re really glad we went. This little country sits between Argentina and Brazil on the Atlantic coast of South America. The main tourist attractions are along the coast, but we also managed to see a small part of the interior of the country. It is an interesting country, with a pretty liberal government and a more European outlook.magnesium amazon

Birds taking flight over the sea by Cabo Polonio
Birds taking flight over the sea by Cabo Polonio

Uruguay is short of ‘must do’ attractions but the countryside and coastal scenery are beautiful. We enjoyed a week with a hire car exploring the coast, from the wild and rugged beaches in the north down to the more manicured beach resorts in the south. A real highlight was staying out in the sierra at Caballos de Luz, getting to really enjoy horse-riding and experience life off-grid.

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Uruguayan Road Trip

Hiring a car is not something we’d thought we’d be doing when we left the UK, South America not being somewhere known for great roads, and backpackers not tending to hire cars on a budget. However, we’ve really enjoyed our road trips, we found them a not too expensive alternative to public transport, and they were all a great way to see the countries outside of the main tourist hot spots. Our fourth and final road trip, despite a few car problems, was no exception.

Day 1: Montevideo to Punta del Este

Our little Geely
Our little Geely

We left our flat in Montevideo and stood in the sun at a bus stop, we’d crossed that road quite a few times in the last few days and pretty much always had to wait for buses to pass. This day however there didn’t seem to be any around. One came past but we checked and it didn’t go near the main bus station so we kept waiting. We got chatting to a guy at the stop and he said there was some kind of strike on. We waited a bit more but in the end, after almost an hour, we decided to use Uber and get a taxi all the way to the airport where we were picking up our hire car. Eventually we made it and were sitting in our hire car and ready to go on road trip number four!

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Colonia and Montevideo

After Iguazu falls we spent a few days in Buenos Aires before heading off to Uruguay. At this point we had just over two weeks of our trip left, time for a little exploration of Uruguay before heading back to Buenos Aires for our final weekend.

Crumbling colonial architecture in Colonia
Crumbling colonial architecture in Colonia

We started our Uruguayan travels in the town of Colonia-del-Sacramento, known locally as Colonia. It’s a small town with a beautiful historic centre, a nice place to spend a bit of time relaxing after hectic Buenos Aires.

We arrived by boat from Buenos Aires on the Colonia Express ferry, covering the 27 miles of the Rio Plata between Argentina and Uruguay in about an hour and a half. We arrived at a fairly run down looking port, heading through old shipping containers made into a makeshift walkway and past some sad looking buildings. Then suddenly we came into a new terminal building, very smart but unfinished and not quite connected to the port just yet! From this arrival we weren’t quite sure what to make of Uruguay yet.

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Iguazu Falls

It’s now been just over a year since we returned from South America and as the last few posts are nearly ready to go and we’re about to start a new chapter in our lives we thought it was time to get a move on closing out the last one………..

After returning from Antarctica we had a couple of days of transit right up to the north of Argentina. Having spent about two months travelling down Chile and Argentina from San Pedro in Chile to Ushuaia in Argentina and then down to Antarctica, it was surreal to travel so many thousands of kilometres in just two flights. We arrived to a warm and humid day in Puerto Iguazú, the main town for access to the famous Iguazu Falls on the Argentina-Brazil border. Continue reading “Iguazu Falls”

Antarctica – a trip of a lifetime!

Today marks one year to the day that we embarked on our journey to Antarctica. Life and work have kept us very busy since we’ve been back in the UK, but we’ve got our act together and here is a mammoth blog post on what was our most amazing adventure.

When we left the UK in September 2015 this was not a post I ever expected to write. Our extravagance for this trip was our visit to the Galapagos islands, which was an incredible experience that we’ll never forget. At the back of our minds however was something that we’d read suggesting that it might be possible to go to Ushuaia on the southern tip of Argentina and get a last-minute trip to Antarctica.

Magical scenery in Antarctica
Magical scenery in Antarctica

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Thoughts on Chile

Being back home and back at work has both given us a new perspective on our travels but also severely limited the amount of time that we have to reflect on our trip. The next major post, Antarctica, is a big one and it’ll be a little while before we’ve gone through all the photos and videos to pull out something to illustrate this incredible continent. In the meantime, in our last post we left Chile for the final time so here are my thoughts on Chile.

Time for a little recap and summary of our thoughts on Chile. We really enjoyed our time in Chile, and it is somewhere that I would love to return to and explore further one day. Even though we spent around a month there altogether, I feel there is a lot more we can come back to. Chile is the long thin west coast of South America, it has a huge range of landscapes and some really interesting cities too. Continue reading “Thoughts on Chile”